So, my due date is one week from today! I decided to start the guest posts now, just to give myself a little time to relax and get ready. Here's a beautiful tutorial from Rachel at Stitched in Color, owner of Euphoria Baby and Euphoria Maternity. The trouble with all the wonderful guest posts I've got lined up is that my list of projects I want to try is just growing and growing!
Scroll down for info about a giveaway!
4 prints (from the inside of the apron front, prints A-B use small scraps, print C requires a fat quarter, print D requires a ½ yard)
15” square for lining
4 x 66” strip for waist tie
100% cotton thread
Begin by machine washing and machine drying your fabric in the same way you wish to care for the finished apron.
We’ll begin by cutting the print for the small square at the center of the apron pocket and continue working outwards from the center.
Print A: Cut one 5” square
Print B: Cut two 4.25” squares. Divide each square in half diagonally, creating two half square triangles from each square, for a total of 4 half square triangles.
Print C: Cut two 6” squares. Divide each square in half diagonally, creating two half square triangles from each square, for a total of 4 half square triangles.
Print D: Cut one 8” square. Cut in half diagonally, creating two half square triangles. Cut one 16.25 x 14.25 rectangle – this is your apron backing.
Lining: Cut one 15” square – this will line your pieced apron pocket.
Waist Tie: Cut one strip 66” long and 4” wide. If necessary, you can piece together multiple 4” strips to achieve a length of 66”. Always sew with rights sides together so that any piecing seams will be hidden.
Piecing the Apron Pocket
Note: use ¼” seams and press all seams open, unless otherwise indicated.
Locate two Print B triangles and pin them on opposite sides of your Print A square with right sides together. You will notice that your triangle is a bit larger than the side of your square. This is important! Center the triangle on the side of your square.
Stitch and press open. When piecing, you do not need to backstitch at the beginning and end of each seam.
Sew remaining Print B triangles on the other 2 edges, finishing the square. Be sure to stitch from the beginning to the end of each edge, even on the overlapped triangles. When finished, you should have Print B crossover at each corner of your square.
Locate two Print C triangles and sew them on opposite sides of your block. Sew with right sides together and press.
Again, sew remaining Print C triangles on the other 2 edges, finishing the square.
Before proceeding to the next step, use a rotary cutter, ruler and mat to square up your block. Don’t cut off too much! You must retain a ¼” seam margin from the point of each corner to the edge, so that the square’s tips will not be covered when piecing the next step. You should be trimming just a bit from each side, as needed to square the block with 1/4” margins.
Locate one Print D triangle and sew on the bottom edge of your block. Press.
Sew remaining Print D triangle along the other bottom edge. Press. Your bottom edge should now measure 15”.
Trim hang-over triangle ears from your apron pocket, so that all edges are straight.
Assembling the Apron Front
Lay the pocket over your lining fabric. Trace and cut lining in the same shape as the pocket.
With wrong sides together, stitch your lining onto your pocket with a 1/8” edge stitch. Though not strictly necessary, this lining gives your apron pocket extra strength for those wooden clothespins.
To finish the triangle-shaped top edge of your pocket, fold each edge over just ¼”. Press to set the seam, then stitch with a 1/8” top stitch.
Locate the large Print D rectangle that forms the backing of your apron. Locate the shorter sides of that rectangle, which measure 14.25”. Fold and press each side ¼” and then ¼” again, creating a finished edge. Top stitch at 1/8”.
Lay out the Print D rectangle with printed side down. Lay your apron pocket on top with the pieced side down, so that your lining faces up. Pin along the pocket sides and bottom and at the pocket point at the very top. Stitch with a ¼” seam.
Trim your corners and turn the apron right side out. Press the pocket flat. Press the top edges that extend beyond the pocket flat, so that they do not turn in.
Now, here’s a little cheat. Most aprons use binding to finish all edges. I dislike working with binding, so we’ve finished the exposed edge with top stitching. To prevent the exposed edges from flipping in, press the edges out and then top stitch at the joint of the apron pocket and the exposed edge. Top stitch just a ¼” or so inwards and upwards along the pocket opening. In this way, you’ve slightly closed the pocket and stabilized the edge. When you attach the waist tie up top, the sides will be forced to remain open as well.
Attaching the Ties
Locate your 66 x 4” strip of fabric for the apron waist ties. Place the right side down on your ironing board and fold the sides in so that they meet exactly in the center. Press the entire strip this way.
At each end of the 66” long tie, fold and press the edge in ¼”.
Now press the entire strip in half longways, so that the raw edges are hidden in the center of the strip. The width of your strip should now be approximately 1”.
At each far end of your 66” strip, stitch the ends closed with a 1/8” top stitch.
Now pin the center of your strip over the top of the apron, enclosing the upper edge of your apron in the fold of the waist tie.
Voila, you're done!
Rachel, thanks so much for this beautiful tutorial! And for anyone who'd like to try their hand at winning the gorgeous apron shown in the pictures above, hop on over to Rachel's blog today through Thursday!